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Control Arm Bushing and Bolt Fell Out

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3.2K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  Roscoe7  
#1 · (Edited)
I found one control arm shaft bolt very loose and the other side gone along with its bushing. 57 2DR HTP Driver's upper control arm. Before I take off the control arm/spring, any idea why this may have happened? Under 1000 miles since all 4 (stock) control arms had new bushings installed. Passenger side is all tight. No vibration before discovered it was missing. I was tracing the wires for my 700R4 when I found them.
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#2 ·
I found one control arm shaft bolt very loose and the other side gone along with its bushing. 57 2DR HTP Driver's upper control arm. Before I take off the control arm/spring, any idea why this may have happened? Under 1000 miles since all 4 (stock) control arms had new bushings installed. Passenger side is all tight. No vibration before discovered it was missing. I was tracing the wires for my 700R4 when I found them.
The bushings have a serrated end on the both ends of the inner sleeve that digs into the washer and end of the shaft. If it is not tight, the movement of the arm will walk the bolt out. The bushing should be a tight press fit in the control arm. It should not have come out.
You do not have to remove the spring to take off the upper arm. Support the lower arm and unbolt the ball joint and the upper arm is free to take off the studs. Note the shims.
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#3 ·
a poly bushing will come out of the sleeve if the bolt and washer are missing. what kind of bushings did you have installed?? got pictures??
 
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#6 ·
I had the same thing happen. I`m running the polygraphite bushings. I used some thread lock on the threads when i replaced it. No problems since.
Terry
 
#10 ·
a poly bushing will come out of the sleeve if the bolt and washer are missing. what kind of bushings did you have installed?? got pictures??
Bushings are stock rubber type.
a poly bushing will come out of the sleeve if the bolt and washer are missing. what kind of bushings did you have installed?? got pictures??
If I understand, jack up under the lower control arm and remove the bolt for the upper ball joint? Shock removed also?
 
#11 ·
Bushings are stock rubber type.

If I understand, jack up under the lower control arm and remove the bolt for the upper ball joint? Shock removed also?
No, you don't have to take the shock off. It's connected to the frame, not the upper arm. With the lower supported and you take the ball joint off the knuckle, the upper arm is free to swing up and down so you can take it off the mounting studs. 1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog
 
#13 ·
The same thing happened to me and a handful of others here who had the same problem. I did everything as it was supposed to be done. Got new bushings, put it together, used a torque wrench and added a few foot lbs. Happened again but I caught it while the bolt was still in it and the bushing hadn't come loose yet. Took the bolt out and cleaned the threads on a wire wheel and inside with carb cleaner and the bolt in and out. Then covered the bolt with blue locktight. My memory is fading, something tells me that it came loose again so I used red locktite, but I'm not sure about that. I guess if I have to remove that bolt, then I'll find out what I used!
 
#14 ·
Loctite 262 is red high strength and might require a small amount of heat to release.
Also, make dam sure car is at ride height with full weight on suspension when torquing the bolts.
 
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#15 ·
the sad part here is that the rubber should have neen bonded to the inside of the shell in the control arm. must have been some cheap bushings the shop used.
 
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#16 ·
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Update:
Thanks for the insight on the control arm removal. Getting it loose was the easy part. Seems like every repair/replacement becomes 2 or 3 more as this all started from an unrelated and unsolved transmission issue. I still have the original style front motor mounts. My shorty headers wouldn’t allow the control arm to slide enough to clear the studs. So after fighting the spinning motor mount studs, I was able to get them loose and gain enough clearance to remove my control arm. Should the bushings be replaced in pairs or can the lone one be replaced? Can the separated bushing be pressed together as a temporary fix? I anticipate going to aftermarket arms for their added caster when I add my CPP PS and Ididit tilt column and side motor mounts all at once.
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#17 ·
Update:
Thanks for the insight on the control arm removal. Getting it loose was the easy part. Seems like every repair/replacement becomes 2 or 3 more as this all started from an unrelated and unsolved transmission issue. I still have the original style front motor mounts. My shorty headers wouldn’t allow the control arm to slide enough to clear the studs. So after fighting the spinning motor mount studs, I was able to get them loose and gain enough clearance to remove my control arm. Should the bushings be replaced in pairs or can the lone one be replaced? Can the separated bushing be pressed together as a temporary fix? I anticipate going to aftermarket arms for their added caster when I add my CPP PS and Ididit tilt column and side motor mounts all at once.
View attachment 432656
always replace in pairs
DO NOT TRY TO REUSE THE DEFECTIVE PART
the sleeve must be removed, and the new bushing installed as a unit. make sure you note the orientation of the control arm shaft upon removal so you get it back in correctly.