I wouldn't assume the right rear is always the furthest. But really a small difference in length makes zero difference whether it's bled completely or not. You could start at either rear wheel and bleed, and it's still going to be just fine.

 

This ones slightly off topic, but when bleeding the entire system after installing the MC why do we consider the Right Rear (pass side) the furthest one from the MC. maybe as the wrench fly's but when I trace my brake lines they run across the front down the pass side and back across the rear axel. so as I see it the Left rear or Drivers side is the furthest from the MC as the fluid flows. What have I been missing all these years?
Beachcomber

 

"Then like said before, I install the lines tight, loosen them a little, with a rag underneath give it a couple hard pumps to get the air out of that area."

Please tell me how you loosen the lines a little, pump the brakes hard, and hold the rag, all while not being in both places? If you pump the brakes hard you'll need to be inside the car wont you? And pumping them hard will not result in the fluid just slowly dripping on a rag spread below. It's going to squirt everywhere.
I'll stick with the old fashion bench bleed method myself.

 

"Then like said before, I install the lines tight, loosen them a little, with a rag underneath give it a couple hard pumps to get the air out of that area."

Please tell me how you loosen the lines a little, pump the brakes hard, and hold the rag, all while not being in both places? If you pump the brakes hard you'll need to be inside the car wont you? And pumping them hard will not result in the fluid just slowly dripping on a rag spread below. It's going to squirt everywhere.
I'll stick with the old fashion bench bleed method myself.

First of all, I do bench bleed first, I said that. Then when installing the master into the car, there is a small amount of air that gets into the ports/lines. That is all I am bleeding, the little bubble that may or may not be at that junction. Like I said over and over, I lay the rag down below the lines and press the pedal. The fluid drips out. It doesn't spray anywhere, just drips out onto the paper towel/rag. I don't need to hold the rag because the fluid is dripping, not spraying. I don't know any other way to explain it. All I will say is that it does not make any mess except fluid dripping on the rag. No mess at all. No brake fluid spraying anywhere. Drip, drip, drip, drip...................................................

 

Actually, I ordered the above male fitting just to verify it's a standard air fitting.
The pressure bleeder comes with a female fitting on the hose, so I need a male air fitting on my master cylinder cap.

 

I ordered this manual pump pressure bleeder a while back, but haven't yet had a chance to use it.
A spare master cylinder cap for my stock single master cylinder will have to be drilled and tapped with pipe threads to screw in a female air fitting.
The price seemed reasonable, no second person should be required, and I won't have to disconnect and refill with brake fluid periodically.
Vacuum bleeders haven't worked as well, in my experience. It's too easy to suck air from the bleeder threads, or from a loose fitting vacuum hose connection.
This solution may not help with bleeding the master itself.

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The thing is, is that the "new" method works just fine. You don't need anything different.

 

Sounds way too messy, plus needing someone inside to pump, and something outside to catch the mess. I'd rather have the fluid contained, and returned to the reservoir, than all over the master and engine bay.

 

If they come with plugs you can make your own easily. Just drill a hole in the center of each plug, and glue a clear plastic hose in each. Then screw them in and bench bleed it.

 

I've been through a good number of master cylinders in different vehicles in the past 5 years for various reasons. None of them came with the little plastic ports and hoses anymore. Just a solid plastic plug that screws in. Instructions say to stroke the piston in and out a little over an inch and no further until no more air comes out of the holes in the reservoir. Then like said before, I install the lines tight, loosen them a little, with a rag underneath give it a couple hard pumps to get the air out of that area. No need to pump that little bit of air all the way through the system. With my check valve method I mentioned, I bleed my brakes myself with no need for a pressure bleeder.

 

I use my vacuum bleeder on my brakes ever since I bought it decades ago. But I still bleed the master on the bench first if it's new. Never put one on the car without bleeding it, but did have to help a friend bleed his on the car when he installed it without bench bleeding first.
They make clips to hold the hoses into the fluid on a master, but if you don't have the clips you can flip the bails up, and simply wire tie the hoses to the bails to hold them in the fluid and bleed it on the car.
I hate trying to get help to bleed brakes, and haven't needed to for decades with my vacuum bleeder.

 

I've seen some people just take a little extra brake line and direct the fluid from the ports back to the reservoir that way. You can bend them down into the fluid so when you come off the pedal you don't suck in any air.

Alternatively, I always use my vacuum bleeder on the calipers and never have a problem with residual air anyplace.

 

On motorcycles, some reverse fill the master cylinder by slowly pushing or pumping fluid in from the valve on the caliper up to the master. Air rises, so by pushing from bottom up pushes the air up and out the top as it fills the reservoir.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The reason for bench instead of on the car: The pedal doesn't depress the piston all the way to the bottom of the MC bore. Using a rod or screwdriver on the bench allows full travel of the piston to get all the air out.

 

But all the directions I've seen tell you DO NOT depress the master cylinder more than 1" (maybe 1 1/2"). And I've read here or somewhere that pressing it in all the way can damage the seals.

 

My pressure bleeder and I don't know what you folks are talking about

 

With a dual master cylinder I always questioned the need to do the rear brakes first. Why?

A few times I put a bench bled master cylinder into the vehicle with the front and rear lines tight, then backed off 1/4 or so turn, put a rag under them, and pumped the pedal slowly a few times. Tightened them up and the pedal is hard. Always worked for me.

To bleed the lines I put a hose on the bleeder with a 2lb residual valve at the end to act as a check valve, and into a container. Works much better than putting the tube into a can of brake fluid because every time you let the pedal up, the line can still suck fluid up the hose along with any air that might be in the hose yet.

 

I'm going to try that as bench bleeding a master sucks and takes forever.

I just completed the "bench bleed" on a 57, with the mc on the car.
I made 2 3/16" hard lines to return the fluid to the mc. NP, took longer to make the lines than to bleed the mc.
An "old fart" trick: We use a rubber hammer, and rap the mc, and the calipers, while bleeding. Often see a large qty of bubbles, when doing that.
Surface tension holds bubbles on the surfaces. The rap causes them to let go.
In the "FWIW" dept: The electric brake system from Speedway has this, in the directions.
LF, RF, RR, LR....I still do it the "old fashioned" way.