[hutchenc]

I don’t see what the big deal is. Since the axle moves back and forth from side to side during cornering what difference is it going to make that a pan hard bar moves in an arc? Yeah it would be better to have a Watts or triangulated, but a panhard bar will keep things fairly well centered during normal driving, and on a budget build will be fine.

I agree...and this fellow seems to know what he's talking about (not a tri-five, but still a leaf spring rear end car):

 

[twin engines]

What would be the specs of machining something like this? I mean, inner and outer diameter as well as length?

My pop has a Bridgeport lathe and mill in his garage!

If other fellas might be interested, I could probably have him make a run of a dozen sets or so out of aluminum or delrin. Steel is a b*itch to machine so I know he'll want to do it in aluminum or delrin if possible.

Panhard bars are easy to make, a Watts takes som fabrication but IMO is a better system for leafs.

Speedway Universal Weld-On Rear Panhard Bar Track Rod Kit

Works on most any chassis and rear axle configuration Controls rear axle laterally and works in conjunction with multi-link suspensions 25-1/2-inch OAL Panhard bar measured center-to-center of rod ends Panhard rod made from 7/8-inch DOM steel tubing and uses 5/8-inch rod ends Rod ends are left...

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[topdog]

Is there a specific reason that you would want a pan hard bar on a classis chevy? Not a car that one might take on a road course. For normal driving don't see any advantage

 

[1971BB427]

If you're talking machining aluminum bushings for the front control arms, then it would be ID and OD, plus a lip to keep them from moving once pressed into the control arm. Additionally you wouldn't want the control arm shaft to run directly on the aluminum, so each pf the 8 bushings would also need to be bored to accept a steel or bronze sleeve that the shafts would ride on.
So not just a simple case of making up 8 bushings to fit the control arms. Might save some time/work if you could buy bronze or steel sleeves the correct ID to fit the shafts, and then simply bore the aluminum bushings to accept that sleeve.

 

[twin engines]

Is there a specific reason that you would want a pan hard bar on a classis chevy? Not a car that one might take on a road course. For normal driving don't see any advantage

Nope, they work great, definitely needed on non leaf cars as well

 

[twin engines]

If you're talking machining aluminum bushings for the front control arms, then it would be ID and OD, plus a lip to keep them from moving once pressed into the control arm. Additionally you wouldn't want the control arm shaft to run directly on the aluminum, so each pf the 8 bushings would also need to be bored to accept a steel or bronze sleeve that the shafts would ride on.
So not just a simple case of making up 8 bushings to fit the control arms. Might save some time/work if you could buy bronze or steel sleeves the correct ID to fit the shafts, and then simply bore the aluminum bushings to accept that sleeve.

I just sent a link for a universal panhard kit.

 

[1971BB427]

I thought he was asking about making bushings for front control arms, or rear spring eyes? That's what I was replying to.

 

[DHR Darren]

Take a set of calipers and measure out the ID of your spring eye & the width of your spring pocket. And then you will just bore it for whatever diameter bolt do you use most likely half-inch.

 

[hutchenc]

Take a set of calipers and measure out the ID of your spring eye & the width of your spring pocket. And then you will just bore it for whatever diameter bolt do you use most likely half-inch.

Thanks Darren...yes, I was talking about rear spring eyes. I think the pocket is 2.58" wide (at least, according to this diagram it is: https://www.trifive.com/d1/garage/55 Chevy Assembly Manual/2-12.gif). That would probably be pretty easy to make.

Might see if I can make a greasable delrin one with a steel sleeve inside.

 

[twin engines]

CUSTOM DELRIN/ACETAL Plastic bushings, made to YOUR SIZE, QUANTITY, and SPECS | eBay

I can make you custom delrin/ acetal bushings(headless, or with flange). (1) CUSTOM DELRIN Plastic bushing for pbsch929 (#192456530266). (4) CUSTOM DELRIN/ACETAL Plastic bushings, for smag2977 (#192467863146).

www.ebay.com

 

[twin engines]

Or....

BEST pivot BUSHING BUSHINGS DELRIN GROOVED

BEST BUSHING BUSHINGS DELRIN GROOVED pivot bushings for off road sand cars yes they need greese and have grooves many custom sizes for can-am canam x3 rs a-arms and swing arms

www.rbpmfg.net

 

[twin engines]

And finally as an option

Delrin® Plastic Machined Parts

Plastic Machining Inc. has extensive experience in machining Delrin® parts and is able to make them to your specifications or help you design parts to fit your needs. Processing and machining of Delrin® parts take place in a completely controlled environment, and complete records of our...

www.plasticmachininginc.com

 

[twin engines]

But if it were me I'd just call these guys...they pick up the phone

1955-1957 Tri Five, Belair, Nomad Control Arms, Bushings and Power Steering Kit Parts - Global West Suspension Car Parts

Find and shop all the 1955-1957 Tri Five, Belair, Nomad Control Arms, Bushings and Power Steering Kit car parts you need on Global West Suspension Car Parts.

www.globalwest.net

Check this out

1955, 1956, 1957, Belair, Biscayne Del-A-Lum Bushings and Shackle Kit part# 116SH

<strong>Global West Suspension Advantage-Del-A-Lum Shackle Kits:</strong><br><br>Del-A-Lum bushings are perfect for street, drag and autocross applications. Installation requires the bushing housings to be pressed into the frame and the leaf spring eyelets.<br><br>Inserts and thrust washers...

www.globalwest.net

 

[hutchenc]

But if it were me I'd just call these guys...they pick up the phone

1955-1957 Tri Five, Belair, Nomad Control Arms, Bushings and Power Steering Kit Parts - Global West Suspension Car Parts

Find and shop all the 1955-1957 Tri Five, Belair, Nomad Control Arms, Bushings and Power Steering Kit car parts you need on Global West Suspension Car Parts.

www.globalwest.net

Check this out

1955, 1956, 1957, Belair, Biscayne Del-A-Lum Bushings and Shackle Kit part# 116SH

<strong>Global West Suspension Advantage-Del-A-Lum Shackle Kits:</strong><br><br>Del-A-Lum bushings are perfect for street, drag and autocross applications. Installation requires the bushing housings to be pressed into the frame and the leaf spring eyelets.<br><br>Inserts and thrust washers...

www.globalwest.net

For some reason I thought those were just for the shackles at first. Might take a look at them.

I doubt the addition of those alone would keep the rear end from moving side to side though. I have about a 3/8 inch on both sides in the rear...rubs in corners, and not even fast ones.

 

[twin engines]

For some reason I thought those were just for the shackles at first. Might take a look at them.

I doubt the addition of those alone would keep the rear end from moving side to side though. I have about a 3/8 inch on both sides in the rear...rubs in corners, and not even fast ones.

It will help, use beefy shackles too. A Watts or panhard is probably still needed. I sent you DYI kit links from speedway.

I'm a suspension guy, mostly street and track.

 

[Rick_L]

If you make your own bushings, make sure that tightening the through bolt doesn't bind up the sides of the bushing. To do that, the sleeve needs to be slightly longer than the bushing and be hard enough not to crush, or you need to use a shoulder bolt, the shoulder being just longer than the sleeve.

Of course, any that you buy should be that way too.

 

[1971BB427]

When I was building my Falcon gasser I couldn't find the Delrin or poly bushings to buy, but I thought maybe I could buy an existing set for another vehicle and turn them down.
I took a chance on a set for a late model Blazer, since the year I bought had bushings long enough, and large enough to work with. I took the sleeves out and put a threaded rod through the middle of each bushing prior to turning them down in my lathe. I turned the OD down first, and then used a parting tool to cut them to length. Once I had all my leaf spring bushings made for front and rear spring eyes, I turned the sleeves to slightly longer, and pushed them back into the reworked bushings.
The whole set for the Blazer cost me $59, and I actually had some extras leftover that I've used for various things since like radiator isolation pads, etc. It was cheap, and fun to make too.

 

[DHR Darren]

I always prefer to have a small diameter hole in the spring I and use a needlepoint adapter on my grease gun for shooting grease into there and a greasable spring pin. I prefer aluminum bushings on everything on my cars though. I want them as tight as possible.

 

[twin engines]

Is there a specific reason that you would want a pan hard bar on a classis chevy? Not a car that one might take on a road course. For normal driving don't see any advantage

Next on Mythbusters

 

[twin engines]

When I was building my Falcon gasser I couldn't find the Delrin or poly bushings to buy, but I thought maybe I could buy an existing set for another vehicle and turn them down.
I took a chance on a set for a late model Blazer, since the year I bought had bushings long enough, and large enough to work with. I took the sleeves out and put a threaded rod through the middle of each bushing prior to turning them down in my lathe. I turned the OD down first, and then used a parting tool to cut them to length. Once I had all my leaf spring bushings made for front and rear spring eyes, I turned the sleeves to slightly longer, and pushed them back into the reworked bushings.
The whole set for the Blazer cost me $59, and I actually had some extras leftover that I've used for various things since like radiator isolation pads, etc. It was cheap, and fun to make too.

Poly doesn't belong on moving parts, Delrin or Aluminum is the way to go, otherwise stay with OEM rubber.