Never dealt with a 2 piece driveshaft(carrier bearing in the center).Anyone know how many degrees down I can get away with.I am at 4 now trying for zero but thats about it.Thanks in advance and my 55 will run someday!!:gba:
LS in a 63 Caddy
e-racer ls-1
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154 Posts
Never dealt with a 2 piece driveshaft(carrier bearing in the center).Anyone know how many degrees down I can get away with.I am at 4 now trying for zero but thats about it.Thanks in advance and my 55 will run someday!!:gba:
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12,938 Posts
Depends. If its the stock caddy unit I would measure before removing a duplicate it.
Is it the stock caddy one?
You should beable to get it close to zero on both but really depends on much the lower or higher the diff is. I have always heard you don't want it at zero as it might wear the ujoints out over time.
Is it the stock caddy one?
You should beable to get it close to zero on both but really depends on much the lower or higher the diff is. I have always heard you don't want it at zero as it might wear the ujoints out over time.
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154 Posts
driveshaft
It came with no motor/trans.To make things harder it has an X frame and the driveshaft rides in a tunnel.Thanks for any input!
It came with no motor/trans.To make things harder it has an X frame and the driveshaft rides in a tunnel.Thanks for any input!
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675 Posts
You want as near 0 as you can get on the front shaft. Then within in 3 degrees on the rear of the shaft to the pinion. You should look into a slip joint on the rear shaft or you will probably replace the center bearing regularly. some guys go to the billett center bearing but they are known to cause vibrations and without a slip joint (on a lowered car) you will still take it out. There isn't enough travel in the center bearing to handle the push and pull of the driveshaft.
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9,382 Posts
NOT FUN!
If the car is lowered, has an engine transplanted into custom mounts, be prepared.
Case in point: 1960 Chevy Impala vert.
490"/409 w/ a 4L80E behind it.
9" FORD diff.
D/S was initially about $800. Has center slip/pillow block.
Vibration from day 1.
So far, a re-balance, a lengthening of the ft section, a second tail hsg bushing, a CV joint in the ft section. Another $500 spent.
Countless hours on checking angles, running a program to get those angles.
So far, the vib has been reduced to a decent level.
[And yes, the engine was correctly balanced.] We even had the converter balanced!
We also spent many hrs cutting the tunnel so we could raise the rear of the trans to reduce ft joint angle. [4L80E in place of an iron PG.]
If the car is lowered, has an engine transplanted into custom mounts, be prepared.
Case in point: 1960 Chevy Impala vert.
490"/409 w/ a 4L80E behind it.
9" FORD diff.
D/S was initially about $800. Has center slip/pillow block.
Vibration from day 1.
So far, a re-balance, a lengthening of the ft section, a second tail hsg bushing, a CV joint in the ft section. Another $500 spent.
Countless hours on checking angles, running a program to get those angles.
So far, the vib has been reduced to a decent level.
[And yes, the engine was correctly balanced.] We even had the converter balanced!
We also spent many hrs cutting the tunnel so we could raise the rear of the trans to reduce ft joint angle. [4L80E in place of an iron PG.]
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675 Posts
you can do a 1 piece but you have to cut some of the lower rear tunnel out of the frame to allow the driveshaft to move downward. some guys do it but the driveshaft companys will tell you that a 2 piece will handle more torque than a 1 piece.
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