The 235 filter is a bypass filter, that is the bypass system bleeds a little oil from the main galley and filters it, then it dumps it directly into the pan where it is instantly diluted by dirty oil. It is not very efficient. The restriction is in the input and out put lines. You cannot increase the size of the lines (internal diameter) or you run the risk of bleeding too much oil from the main galley and then starving the bearings. Bad scene.

The oil filter itself was an option, either from new or dealer installed, or back in the day, lots of aftermarket kits. They all worked the same. Many many many 235s never had an oil filter, ever. I do not run one on my highly modified 261 because I could not find an easy place to install one. I do not drive the car on a daily basis any longer and the oil gets changed regularly, usually way before it really needs to (I like to tinker with the car so an oil change is just part of my tinkering). Also, because of the small id of the feed and output lines, only the smallest particles can pass so its more trouble then I am willing to deal with at the moment just to get a highly inefficient oil filter installed.

A full flow conversion is possible, but it requires a bare block and some drilling and tapping and things of that nature. Not practical with the motor already running and in the car.

You can use a remote spin on filter. The only issue is you have to address is restricting the flow which you can do by using reducer fittings for both in and out and then the use of small id lines. The motor I took out of the car a couple of years ago used a remote spin on that I mounted on the inner fender (it took a Fram PH-8 or the shorter but slightly fatter PH-8A as I recall). It would have been better somewhere lower to keep the lines from draining. I used Autometer braided lines for their brand of external fuel gauges. Not sure if they still make them but they were pretty close to the id size you need and and no assembly as they came fully assembled in different lengths.

No kits otherwise that I know of.

 

I'm with Dragsix on this one, no more room for the bypass filter on either of my inlines. If filters were optional from the factory they are still optional today.

 

Thanks - I've been looking at doing it myself using some info I've been gathering... I think I'm going to use a turbo oil restrictor to create the appropriate restriction in the line and a TransDapt remote oil filter mount and then just have to fab up some lines to make it all work... (like this - http://vibrantperformance.com/catal...p?cPath=1529_1516_1292&products_id=1840&osCsid=f5ad0e65e04854bd9505f3340215cd87 - it has an .060 restriction in there which I think is just a bit smaller than the factory .062 or .065" from what I can find from searching here.

 

Less then 1/16, in this case .060, is just making an already inefficient filtration system even more inefficient. Try finding something closer to the stock size.

http://www.autometer.com/3-3an-6ft-3-16-id-fittings.html

These are the lines I used a number of years ago. The fittings provided the restriction. The braided line was way more durable. I think I put those lines on the car arounf 1985 or 86 and removed them in 2012 when I took the motor out.

 

For the trouble just change the oil regularly, every 3000 miles, and enjoy. The bypass filter won't save the engine so the time and money you will spend on adding a oil filter, it won't guarantee protection anyway.

 

A bypass filter IS effective. The old Purolator and the modern Amsoil Bypass filters use a 0.030" orifice. Most of the contaminents in oil are of a low micron rating. Start ups are the worst enemy to any engine and yet we survive. Filtered oil is better than non filtered. Yes, if using mineral oil, do not go over 3000 miles. You can possibly double that for the average synthetic just because of additives that dilute acids from combustion - not for filtration reasons. Best bet, add the filter, keep the oil changed.