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Get a set=up like this from CPP

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers
In the process of educating myself and need some help. I have a factory power assist set up and am just wondering if this is know as the 605 ?? I cant find any reference in my shop manual to a name for the set up. Am looking at classic chev 53-133 as a possibile replacement down the track.

Also my shop manual gives me no limits on play in the steering wheel. What is acceptibile.
I feel the play I have between 11 and 1 oclock with the engine off is ok and it feels tight with the engine running. All my tie rod ends and ball joints are near new.
I have to take this thing over the pits and want to get over first time.
 

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605 is a box out of an 80' s car or others. Mine came from an 82 cutlass. Most people get rid of them [me included] for a lot of reasons. The 500 box seems to be the box of preference these days.
Good luck!!
Jeffrey
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks,
So what is the done thing?? Is it economiclly cheaper to refurb the set up I have or put in a Rack.
I did a rack swap a few years ago http://ejehclubqld.com/ehclub/images/events/cleveland05/Dcp_1903.jpg

I found it a good set up but really have no drama with leaving the factory set up. Also how bolt in are these bolt in conversions and can I retain my factory colum and shifter??
 

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Hi
I have a 57 hardtop with a 350 and the stock power steer set up.
I want to upgrade my gen to a alternator.
What are my options for the power steer pump ??
Thanks
There are MANY MANY kits on the market that replace the original generator-mounted pump with a late model pump, here's one http://www.chevyps.com/10b.html . Also, if you have a completely original 55-59 small block V8, you will need to replace the riveted balancer and pulley with a bolted version, so as to allow the additional pulley to drive the pump, usually runs about $150 for balancer and all pulleys. Or you could find a used set from a 60-up for cheaper. (If you have a later bolted balancer you don't need the new balancer and new double crank pulley, only the single add-on pulley, which is included most kits.)

These parts are in addition to the alternator conversion you use.

The modern pump can be used with your existing original power steering linkage, you can have a hose shop modify your existing hoses or you can get a ready made set of hoses, usually the same source as the pump kit.

That said, within the next few months a new alternator conversion will be on the market that will accept the original generator-mounted power steering pump. This conversion will save you a lot of money.

Have I confused you yet?

And we haven’t even talked about your options for rest of the power steering system!
 

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Cheers
In the process of educating myself and need some help. I have a factory power assist set up and am just wondering if this is know as the 605 ?? I cant find any reference in my shop manual to a name for the set up. Am looking at classic chev 53-133 as a possibile replacement down the track.

LONG WINDED POST ALERT!

The CC 53-133 is not the 605, but is similar in many ways.

Here’s some of the pros and cons of your steering options. I have listed everything, even some info that doesn't pertain to your situation.

ANY hydraulic power steering system can be broken down into two major sub-systems, the pump (the method of producing pressurized fluid) and the assist (the method of assisting the steering action).

I posted some info above on the pump stuff.

Here's info on the assist side of the system.

There are three types of assist systems available now:
-Linkage-assist (stock power steering)
-605 gearbox
-500 gearbox and all its cousins (Delphi, 670, Concept One)
-Rack and pinion


-Stock linkage assist:
PROS:
1. The factory type power steering was designed and engineered for the vehicle by GM and is a tried and true system.
2. The linkage assist power steering is a safer system. Almost all modern rear-wheel drive cars and trucks have either a 605 type gearbox or a rack and pinion steering system. Have you ever tried to turn the wheels on your late model car with the motor off? It's almost impossible to do. With the motor off on a 55-64 equipped with original power
steering, you still have manual steering and can maneuver your classic out of harm's way in an emergency.
3. No steering column or gearbox modification is necessary, you don't need to remove or disassemble those parts.
4. You do not need to drill non-factory holes in your frame, or weld brackets onto your frame, as you would with most rack and pinion and some 605 boxes.
5. Can be used with most later style tapered roller bearing spindles and/or lowered spindles.
6. The linkage parts are available new (idler, pitman, center link, valve, cylinder), so you don't have to rely on rebuilt used parts anymore.

CONS:
1. Valve and cylinder are external, with multiple hose connections. This is a source of leakage in old used components (not so with new or properly restored components of course).
2. Original valves are not available new, although modified later valves are available as a kit to replace original, and they are new.
3. Some engine mods are not compatible with original linkage (this problem could occur with power steering link AND non-PS link).
4. The steering ratio remains the same (since you do not change the steering gear), some people want a quicker ratio steering gear.


-605:
PROS:
1. All assist parts are internal and compact.
2. Parts for the 605 are readily available.
3. Most every bug has been worked out by EXPERIENCED manufacturers of this modified gearbox (i.e., buy from a reputable dealer).
4. The remainder of the linkage system can remain intact, no modification needed.
5. 605 box can be easily removed for service (if it is the type with a rag joint on the steering shaft).

CONS:
1. Some exhaust manifolds and headers have clearance problems.
2. Must modify steering column, some 605 conversions cannot accommodate column shift parts, or use an aftermarket column specifically made for a modern gear.
3. Cannot be used with a column shifted manual transmission. Floor shifted manual trans and all auto trans are OK.
4. Some 605 conversions require drilling holes in frame and/or welding on or bolting on a bracket.
5. Hard steering when motor is not running (see above).
6. Some engine/exhaust mods are not compatible with a 605 steering gear.
7. All 605 conversions involve a used 605 gear, no new ones are available.



-500 gear (and 670, Delphi, Concept One):
PROS:
1. Modern power steering gear with state of the art technology inside.
2. Needle bearing sector shaft for smooth operation.
3. Rack and pinion type valving for a modern feel.
4. Has correct bolt pattern for 55, 56 and 57 frames, has same bolt pattern as original manual gear, no adaptor plate needed, no frame modifications required.
5. A direct drop in replacement for an existing 605 gear.
6. The 500 can be purchased at a discount if you shop around.
7. Can be run with the original generator-mounted pump or a late model pump.

CONS:
1. Some exhaust manifolds and headers have clearance problems.
2. Must modify steering column or use an aftermarket column specifically made for a modern gear.
3. Cannot be used with a column shifted manual transmission. Floor shifted manual trans and all auto trans are OK.
4. Hard steering when motor is not running (see above).



-Rack and Pinion:
PROS:
1. Parts readily available.

CONS:
1. Most rack and pinions were designed for much lighter vehicles, not a car as heavy as a shoebox Chevy.
2. LARGE turning radius on some kits to avoid bumpsteer.
3. Many kits require modification to steering knuckles.
4. Modification to frame is required on most kits.
5. Modification to steering column is required.
6. Hard steering when motor is not running (see above).
7. Trajectory of steering shaft can be too convoluted on some kits, a safety concern.
8. Some racks hang down lower than the bottom of the frame, causing clearance problems.

The short lesson is: no matter which assist system you decide on, BUY FROM A REPUTABLE DEALER who will know his products, be able to answer questions DURING AND AFTER THE SALE and can handle defect returns. Buying from individuals is fine IF you are well-versed in the many products out there AND can evaluate what they have for sale.

I hope this info helps.
 

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This is a battle I fight all the time. I know how difficult it is to compare apples to apples, because many times the only yardstick folks use is the price. Shop for value, not just price.

The main difference is definitely in the pump. The Olde Days pump is a used pump that has probably only been resealed (NOT TRULY REMANUFACTURED, there is a BIG difference between the two, and TOO many companies do NOT know or care about the difference), with a used, possibly beat up and dented, reservoir. With that kind of pump, you have no idea what kind of life expectancy you'll get. And that's important, because when the pump goes out, it can create a lot of metallic debris that contaminates the whole system, so even if Olde Days honors a warranty to replace a bad pump you're left with replacing or repairing everything else.

The PS-076 Pump Kit I referred to in my post has a completely new pump, inside and out. So it's "odometer" is set at Zero, and will give many miles of service. Again, the only "new" parts in the Old Days pump is probably the seals!

The PS-076 Pump Kit is complete, and contains all parts to make the conversion. The Old Days kit is missing the crank pulley, the belt and possibly some hardware. But then, he's not trying to pass it off as a complete kit, but it's easy to assume so, and it's only until you get it do you discover you need to order more parts! LOL

And the current price on the PS-076 Pump Kit is actually much less, I have a hard time keeping the web prices current, they change all the time.

BTW, the Olde Days list price is $187, not $179. :)
 
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