Fresh rebuilt 283 .030 over 8.5-90 compression basically bone stock, new champion 3 row radiator,this vehicle is running @ idle between 210-220°, adjusted timing a couple of times settled on 12° btdc, I've run this car without the radiator cap for a while,the car has never overheated nor has it ever boiled over,even after shutting it off even with out the radiator cap being on, I have installed 6 thermostats ranging from 160-195°,drilled 1/8 weep hole in one and two weep holes in another,I can see when the thermostat opens and coolant flow begins depending on the temp of the thermostat used at that time,placed a shop barrel fan in front of radiator ,placed a 16"electric fan in front of the radiator ,took about 30-40 minutes for it to cool down to 208° with the 16" fan,checked temp readings across the radiator core,outside tube s vary 202-208°,inner tube from top to bottom core 189-148° ,upper tank 204-212°,lower tank 202-206°,called champion,they sent me another radiator,installed new radiator,no difference, I've run a 50/50 mix.30/70 mix of coolant,last measure was removing/running with out the thermostat ,while driving the temp went from the mark just before hot to 3/4 of temp gauge, called griffin radiator and discussed their radiator in comparison to the champion, 2 tubes 1.25 size seem to maybe the answer in comparison to the 3 small tube in the champion,I can build 400-1500 hp motors and have no cooling problems with but this one is kicking my but,I've come the conclusion I don't know what I'm doing at this point,I hate this car with a passion and the car hates me and the customer know's it,But if anyone has some form of insight I'd be willing to listen and try anything before I purchase a griffin radiator,I know their radiators work but of course there is no guarantee that it would run any cooler,Need help before I just walk away to never return to it
*Running excessivly warm but not over heating
shopdog69
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My friends 55 has a champion 3 core radiator in it when he bought it a few years ago.It was ill fitting the lower hose was resting on the crossmember it had a flex fan & metal shroud in the V8 position.The temperature would climb at idle over 200*a swap to the Derale 6 blade Only & it ran at 170*.Since then new engine radiator moved to 6 cylinder position only because he did want a electric fan set up pictured below.Not impressed with the champion radiators fit but it does cool good now 180* with the AC running on a 90* day.Good luck The comment on engine break in temperatures may be accurate in your case.The Cold case & Auto City Classic 2 core radiators have good reviews.I'd put the hood on it & drive it to see where the temperature runs.I have the Auto City Classic in my 56 with a LS & it run 195*with AC on normal for a LS on the hottest days.
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The derale 17" is 28 degree pitch
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It is rare but it happens from time to time, Check for volume of the water pump. High volume water pumps are offered from the aftermarket.
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water pump appears to have sufficient flow
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How did you specifically determine that?
A new radiator will cost hundreds. A new pump less then 100 bucks.
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Not sure I'd go so far as to say "never" as there are many situations where it's the only answer, and they do work as pushers with no issues. Both of my hotrods have such situations where a pusher fan was the only answer, and neither ever overheat.
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shopdog69 said:
....................................checked temp readings across the radiator core,outside tube s vary 202-208°,inner tube from top to bottom core 189-148° ,upper tank 204-212°,lower tank 202-206°,.....................
To me, that indicates an air flow problem. The bottom tank has to be at or below thermostat temp (assume 180 thermostat) to cool the engine. The inner tubes are working well, but the outside tubes are doing very little so the temp of the coolant mix in the lower tank is too high.
....................................checked temp readings across the radiator core,outside tube s vary 202-208°,inner tube from top to bottom core 189-148° ,upper tank 204-212°,lower tank 202-206°,.....................
To me, that indicates an air flow problem. The bottom tank has to be at or below thermostat temp (assume 180 thermostat) to cool the engine. The inner tubes are working well, but the outside tubes are doing very little so the temp of the coolant mix in the lower tank is too high.
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why I prefer a 2 row with much larger tubes
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Visual reference with the cap off, thermostat open and engine at high idle. Should see a rapid steady flow.
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has good flow @ idle and a stronger flow at 1500-2000 rpm
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does not matter how much air or fan size,or location I put to it temp only changes very little
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Could Champion have a manufacturing problem where some of the tubes are blocked not allowing enough flow?
With enough air flow, there should be a lot more difference between all the tubes from top to bottom than you posted.
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