I see no one is giving you an answer.

The S terminal is what engages the starter solenoid. That's the purple wire on the factory wire harness.

The R terminal is what activates the resistor bypass when the starter is engaged.

When you use a Ford solenoid, the large terminal on the starter solenoid only has power when the Ford solenoid is engaged. The purple wire now goes to the S terminal on the Ford solenoid. The Ford solenoid only supplies power to the big terminal when it's engaged. You put a jumper between the big terminal and the S terminal on the starter solenoid so that both are powered when the Ford solenoid is engaged.

I'm not familiar with any Ford solenoids having an R terminal, although it's possible. I know many of them don't have it. If you want to run a ballast resistor you can wire it the normal way for a bypass by connecting a wire from the starter's R terminal and the positive terminal on the coil. If you have a 56 with stock ignition switch and wiring that function is already there without connecting anything to the starter. If you have points you want a ballast resistor and bypass. Also some of the cheaper electronic conversions need a ballast resistor. HEI and many aftermarket ignitions don't use a ballast resistor. Read the instructions for the ignition you have.

 

Roger....I used an AAW Classic update on mine and the battery was in the trunk with a solenoid similar to the F%&$

I connected the large BATT terminal to the S terminal...Because I have points, I connected and the R terminal to the - side of the ballast resister, as shown below...With an HEI the starter R terminal (nor the ballast resistor) would not be used.

 

Pops, where is the Ford solenoid in your diagram? There's a disconnect here, I think we're talking apples and oranges.

 

The solenoid is in the trunk with the battery like I believe most are

 

Here is an overall diagram of my set-up....The wire from the starter R terminal to the ballast resistor has not been drawn in.

 

Those diagrams are not of a Ford starter solenoid.

Next task, does 56owner have a Ford starter solenoid or something like you have shown?

And when I said "there's a disconnect here" I was talking about my thoughts vs. yours, not about a component to disconnect something.

 

This diagram is what I was referring to. Ford Solenoid (chevellestuff.net) That diagram shows a resistor bypass terminal on the Ford solenoid ("I" terminal).

 

Ahh....I see now Rick....Use of that "I" terminal on a Ford solenoid will depend on whether Roger is using points or not.

 

That's only a small portion of the potential discrepancies.

 

I'm a little confused here. Moving the battery to the trunk, and wiring it with a Ford solenoid is common. But it doesn't change what you use for a starter, and solenoid up front? If you have issues with heat or wiring around the stock starter, you'll still have all that with a remote trunk mounted battery and solenoid. Nothing changes up front.

 

I am using MSD 6a up front for ignition. Pops diagram answered most of my question, I have a 8 ga wire from alternator straight to battery but I might duplicate Dave's setup in engine compartment to tap for AAW purple wire. I would put the 125 amp fuse into the hub as my alternator is over 100 amp.

 

Pops, I just realized that your diagram in post #6 is indeed for a Ford solenoid. My apologies for any confusion I caused saying it wasn't. On the other hand, the R and S terminals are not labeled so that diagram by itself does not answer the original question. And your comment in post #9 now makes sense.

So, back to the beginning, you need a jumper between the big terminal on the Chevy starter solenoid between the big terminal and the S terminal. The purple wire in the harness goes to the Ford solenoid S terminal. If there's a ballast resistor it can either go on the I terminal of the Ford solenoid or on the R terminal of the Chevy solenoid.

With this scheme, the Ford solenoid can be mounted anywhere between the battery and the starter.

1971BB427, the "heat soak" advantage of the Ford solenoid is that the S terminal gets the same voltage as the starter power, instead of having potential voltage drop through a bunch of connections (starter to ignition switch to neutral safety switch if used and back to starter). The other thing with the Ford solenoid is that the starter has no hot connections except while cranking.

 

1971BB427, the "heat soak" advantage of the Ford solenoid is that the S terminal gets the same voltage as the starter power, instead of having potential voltage drop through a bunch of connections (starter to ignition switch to neutral safety switch if used and back to starter). The other thing with the Ford solenoid is that the starter has no hot connections except while cranking.

So you don't use a neutral safety switch, etc. using the Ford solenoid? I guess both of mine aren't wired this way, as I have neutral safety switches on both of my cars.

 

You use a neutral safety switch if wanted, just that the voltage on the purple wire doesn't affect starter operation.

 

...just that the voltage on the purple wire doesn't affect starter operation.

Not following you Rick....12V on the purple wire to the S on the starter terminal will cause the starter to engage.

 

Some Ford solenoid's have 4 post some only three. I believe the newer Duraspark cars have 3 where older ones have 4 post. Mine are all wired as Rick described,

 

Any one know where I may purchase separately one of the metal bridge from starter power cable to the solenoid s terminal ? Have seen them in kits but unable to find separately..
My advice never ever use a spade connector on starter. At cruise show about 5 years ago a older gent couldn't get his big block 55 to start. He had mini starter with a spade connector that vibrated off. After it cooled enough to get near his headers I managed to get it hooked up.

 

My Fuel injection controls the electric fuel pump so I am adding a hidden switch ( probably a multi position switch ) inside drivers compartment. Why multi position switch ? to confuse anyone who hasn't been trained in proper operation.

 

Roger...I made my own jumper with a short (don't remember what gauge) piece of wire, terminated by a large and small ring terminals.

What you are talking about does sound interesting though.

 

Roger...I made my own jumper with a short (don't remember what gauge) piece of wire, terminated by a large and small ring terminal.

What you are talking about does sound interesting though.

I have alwalys used 10ga with ring connectors myself.