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throttle pedal linkage with engine in

4.9K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  jkg2101  
#1 ·
I am frustrated by the stock throttle pedal linkage hooked up to my 2x4 carb setup. There is too much resistance with 2 carbs and 2 return springs, and the physics arent really good, so that a short travel of the gas pedal leads to a larger opening of the carbs Hard to modulate the throttle. either too much or too little throttle.

anyway, after failing at my own custom pedal setup, I am willing to try the lokar set up. but I do not know if I can remove the old throttle linkage with the engine in. i can't really see the 2 bolts behind the engine

DOES ANYONE KNOW IF IT IS POSSIBLE TO REMOVE OLD THROTTLE PEDAL LINKAGE AND INSTALL LOKAR ONE WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Even when you get it done you aint gonna be happy, i got the lokar and if wishes were kisses, my throttle would be like you want not like what we have.

Heard of hydraulic, but have never seen it, its prob a pain also. Maybe a single carb would bring happiness, nawww, you get it done to your satisfaction let me know, maybe the angle of the dangle at the carb for me ?, maybe not, maybe the smart guys will chime in an tell us how to get what we want, without the pain, like that's gonna happen.:sign0020:
 

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#5 ·
Even when you get it done you aint gonna be happy, i got the lokar and if wishes were kisses, my throttle would be like you want not like what we have.
Not here. I am very happy with the Lokar throttle cable. It works a lot smoother than the original setup did. Of course i only have 1 TBI and not 2 carbs.
Terry
 
#7 ·
I think boggescharles is commenting about a 2-4 setup, which is way different from a single carb or throttle body on a stock looking manifold.

One thing you have to worry about, particularly if you are trying to install the Lokar with the car apart, is how high the throttle cable hole on the firewall needs to be. If you line it up for a horizontal run inside the passenger compartment, it will probably be too low.
 
#8 ·
One thing you have to worry about, particularly if you are trying to install the Lokar with the car apart, is how high the throttle cable hole on the firewall needs to be. If you line it up for a horizontal run inside the passenger compartment, it will probably be too low.
Was thinking about that as well Rick....I guess the best way is to install the pedal with the car apart and install the cable, after the engine goes in.
 
#9 ·
One thing you have to worry about, particularly if you are trying to install the Lokar with the car apart, is how high the throttle cable hole on the firewall needs to be. If you line it up for a horizontal run inside the passenger compartment, it will probably be too low.
The Lokar cable setup has to install with the cable coming out the firewall parallel to then top of the accelerator rod on the pedal setup. How tall the fuel delivery system doesn`t effect that. The cable can be turned up to attach at any height.
Terry
 
#11 ·
I have studied the problem a lot. the stock throttle pedal hinges at the floor, and so the actual linear travel of the pedal where my foot touches it is not that far, so the pedal travels a small distance for a relatively large motion at the carbs. the ideal setup would have the pedal traveling farther for more sensitivity in the action.

In other words, the fact that the pedal hinges at the floor is a big part of the problem. I took a pedal and basically mounted it on the end of the stock throttle linkage, so it was no longer connected to the floor. Now the pedal moves a long distance for the same carb actuation. This actually felt really great, until my custom throttle pedal attachment loosened and the pedal got wedged in place on the floor, sticking my throttle partially open.

I shut the engine off before any thing bad happened, other than taking a year or two off my life.

I guess my first choice would be to somehow mount a pedal on the end of the stock linkage and eliminate the floor mount. then the lower portion of the pedal will travel a further distance (rotating around the hinge at the firewall instead of rotating around the hinge on the floor), but I have not yet figured out how to make that reliable.
 
#14 · (Edited)
2x4s is a bit healthier (harder) in the throttle feel than a injected model, like way more, and if you cut the spring, the idle will suffer. No heaven, no hell, just what it is. Thats one reason i have bought a progressive throttle linkage instead of the straight linkage, trying for a softer feel. We shall see someday.

That is one consideration that you might consider, mine is uninstalled for the moment, i get apprx 5mpg on my set up, would be nice to pick up a bit of mileage, running on one 4bbl at a time till 2 are needed.

As for the firewall, mines been replaced and moved back a bit, and the motor moved forward, I do have the Lokar, but my pedal position leaves sumpn to be desired, its a race car at heart.

Progressive linkage equals one carb and a one spring set up, kick it in, second carb comes into play, and so does a second spring, (for me anyway). Give it some thought and keep talking because im listening, and Merry Christmas to all and to all a Good Night at 347am Texas time.:shakehands:

PS, maybe you can see with this pic what im working with, best to ya.
 

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#15 ·
Running both carbs synchronised (not progressive) certainly is not fuel efficient. I have the really nice edelbrock linkage that lets you do it either way. BUT, running synchronised makes the engine sound great. Running progressive sounds too tame. Since this is a weekend cruiser only, there is no doubt which way I am running it.
When running progressive linkage, so only carb is actuated at first, with the stock throttle pedak, the inital travel is reasonable, but then it becomes stiff when the second carb kicks in, so it was hard to modulate the throttle and I end up just putting around on one carb all the time.