[oldfart]

When I turn the nut on the upper ball joint the bolt turns along with the bolt..Is the top of the bolt screwed into the balljoint?

 

[BigDaddyRat]

When I turn the nut on the upper ball joint the bolt turns along with the bolt..Is the top of the bolt screwed into the balljoint?

I've been there and frustrating, I've tried several things, but the one I had good luck with was to use a drag link removal tool, (the one with the U on the end of a shaft) and drive that between the upper part of the spindle just below the ball joint, which provides enough force to keep the ball joint from rotating when you turn the Nut to loosen it. Worked for me, best of luck, BDR...

 

[oldfart]

I've been there and frustrating, I've tried several things, but the one I had good luck with was to use a drag link removal tool, (the one with the U on the end of a shaft) and drive that between the upper part of the spindle just below the ball joint, which provides enough force to keep the ball joint from rotating when you turn the Nut to loosen it. Worked for me, best of luck, BDR...

Thanx for the answer BD.I was worried that it would pop off before I was ready & take my head off.

 

[daves55]

Fred,

Just don't remove the nut all the way. Once you get the nut to "break loose", leave it attached to the ball joint a few turns. That will keep the ball joint from letting go of the spindle all at once. This will let you have control of getting the ball joint to release from the spindel without letting go all at once. Then you can concentrate on taking the pressure off the spring at your own pace.

Keep us posted. I have had the pleasure of doing this twice in the last two years on my 55.

Dave

 

[oldfart]

Thanks Dave..I did something that I hate to do but didn't see any other way..I had about a 1/4" of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the nut so I put some vice grips on the end of the bolt and tightened up the nut to get the tapered bolt to grab.Then loosened the nut and all went well from there..I called thehotrodhandyman for advise and as usual he straightened me out.(I pick his brain A LOT)

So the old spring is 17" high w/10 5/8" coils that are 1 1/4" apart.
The new springs are 14 1/2" high w/10 coils that are 3/4" apart..Big difference..Thank you everyone for your suggestions..Its 92 degrees outside so after it cools off some I'll install a new one then start on the other side.

Does anyone have any idea why the PO would have used such long springs? I put my 300 pounds on the front frame horns and the front end didnt go down even an inch unless I jumped up & down..

 

[daves55]

That is a big difference in spring lengths. Good thing you are getting it fixed.

Bruce is a good guy. He is a world on knowledge.

Dave

 

[BigDaddyRat]

..I had about a 1/4" of the bolt sticking through the bottom of the nut so I put some vice grips on the end of the bolt and tightened up the nut to get the tapered bolt to grab.Then loosened the nut and all went well from there...

Hey, glad to hear you got it broke loose, I didn't realize you had enough thread to grab with the vice grips, but that was definitely the best way since you did. :congrats:

BDR...

 

[CJS57]

I would search on the topic of springs before installing. The new short spring is going to make your car very low in the front. The stock spring is about 16.5" and your new spring has very tight coil spacing too.

 

[crankshaft]

Be sure the ball joints are good before installing the new springs. This is not a job you want to do twice. Are these new springs lowering springs? I ask because sometimes there is a wheel clearance problem if they are.:anim_25:

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

I would search on the topic of springs before installing. The new short spring is going to make your car very low in the front. The stock spring is about 16.5" and your new spring has very tight coil spacing too.

The ones I removed from my 57 that originally had a 6 cyl were 16.5"

 

[D.S.]

Does anyone have any idea why the PO would have used such long springs? I put my 300 pounds on the front frame horns and the front end didnt go down even an inch unless I jumped up & down..

Was the car originally a 6 cylinder?
I seem to recall the 6 used heavier springs due to the weight of the engine...

Here is and old thread discussing springs...
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21279

 

[oldfart]

Be sure the ball joints are good before installing the new springs. This is not a job you want to do twice. Are these new springs lowering springs? I ask because sometimes there is a wheel clearance problem if they are.:anim_25:

Yes they are 1 1/2" lowering springs..I like the old school "rake".The tires are 14s so I'm sure that I wont have a problem.If I do have a problem,I'll just go w/smaller tires.The whole front end including the ball joints is new.
When I 1st got the car there were maybe 2 cotter pins under the front and nothing was tight.So while I'm doing this job,I'm tightening everything and installing cotter pins where needed.

 

[oldfart]

Got er Done! If you recall in a previous post,the 56 was almost impossible for me to move and the wheels set crooked..Now the wheels are straight and I can move the car w/one hand.And the upper a arm is no longer laying on the frame .:happy0030: