700r4

Get youself a TCI 700r4 w/lockup and 242700 converter. Fill with TCI max shift. Your horsepower level says you have a pretty big cam which needs a higher stall speed converter which makes more heat so buy a tranny cooler rated at least 24,000 lb GVW and drive it. Use 3.50 to 3.73 gears and have fun. But be careful. I wouldn't be doing donut burnouts with a 4 door htp. looks to me you'd get a significant amount of body twist. Can you see the doors coming open?

 

56owner,

this is a very helpful information, do you know a good place that sells them?
do you think i need to change the differential as well? or the original should be fine for the 460 HP and tranny?

Get youself a TCI 700r4 w/lockup and 242700 converter. Fill with TCI max shift. Your horsepower level says you have a pretty big cam which needs a higher stall speed converter which makes more heat so buy a tranny cooler rated at least 24,000 lb GVW and drive it. Use 3.50 to 3.73 gears and have fun. But be careful. I wouldn't be doing donut burnouts with a 4 door htp. looks to me you'd get a significant amount of body twist. Can you see the doors coming open?

 

k
your gonna hav to spend some $ on this tranny, even then it wont hold up, these over drives just wont hold up to hp and torq.
theres cpl companys out there that build over drives that they say will handle it, but, personally I dont believe it, just my opinion .:anim_25:

 

66, yeah i found it running at $2600 included by the shipping, its also made by cpi.

Not necessarily to have an over drive tranny becuase ill be driving my car in town, not into high ways.

 

Hey 66. My son is fixing to rebuild a 700R to p What you think?ut in his beefed up 77 Vette. It will not be a "strip" car but I know it will be "goosed" some. We were told it would work great esp when he drives the freeway to work, ('bout 35 miles each way). It won't be a daily driver but will be driven.
:gba:
bowtie-trifive

 

700r4

Mickey I don't think that they built 700r4 before 84. so if its fom a 77 Vette some put it in later. If he going to build it himself the first thing would be yo couny input shaft splines to make sure it is a 30 spline and not a 27 spline. If its a 27 forget find the real thing. They made a bunch of other improvements during the change to 30 spline.

 

I have a 91 model 4L60 in my 56 its OK, but the TKO 600 in my 55 is a whole lot more fun. Real cars have solid lifters & a clutch pedal.

 

Usa1, ill be running an automatic transmission, will the TKO600 workout fine for me? You think its better than the 700r4?

 

Hello,

I just bought a new 383 stoker engine with 460 HP from enginefactory for my 1957 chevy bel air 4 door hard top, I got confused when I reached the type of transmission that can be hooked up with it. i didnt know what type to go for.

I got an advice to go for the 700R4, but here is the thing, it says max capacity for this transmission is 450 HP and torque converter with 2400 - 2600 stall speed.

do you recommend to go for this transmission? or you suggest something else?

im looking for a daily use and powerful.

im just thinking for a future plan, if I wanted to upgrade the engine. what might happen to the transmission? can it handle more than 500 HP?
it says max 450 HP.

Phoenix Transmissions has a product in the 700 R4 that will certainly handle your needs, check them out. Past experience has been great with them. www.phoenixtransmissions.com

 

Thanks nickp for the suggestion, ill Look at it right away

 

I have had a built TH700 behind a sb 400 in our 55 for over 4 years with no problems.
Last dyno pull made 448 hp at the wheels.
The car has run 11.8 so far with the carby secondaries only just opening (linkage problem). We also tow a teardrop camper as well.
What I'm getting at is they CAN take a fair bit of power if built right.
One thing I do is take it easy when the convertor is locked and in overdrive,especially when towing.
I have a mate who has one in his blown 350 55 hardtop and another guy with a 383 Hilux . Both of them going well.
I think a lot of 700s have been killed by people not having the TV cable not adjusted precisely which can fry clutches in no time, giving them a bad reputation.
I get really good fuel economy considering the car is reasonably quick.
I would never go back to a 3 speed auto.
Just my opinion.

 

now that i heard alot of suggestions, i have just called CKperformance to check with them what would be the best for the +460 HP, the guy told me "GM2004R" would be the best for 500-800 HP. has any one tried it?

kindly advise,

 

57 HT - I'm running a 2004R in my 56
had it built to stand up to 600 HP - just in
case I want to do something stupid !!!! 3:
best thing I've done to the car - go for it
you wont be sorry
Doug

 

Hello doug,

You think the 2004r is better than the 700r4? Im kinda lost now 3: , dont know which one to go for.

Im going tp drive the car in city, not for the high ways with a max speed not exceeding 80 MPH.

 

2004r has better gear ratios. The 700r4 has a big RPM drop in the 1-2 shift.

 

Bossman,

ill mostly use the first and second gear shifts, from signal to the next traffic signal, thats mostly it

 

Had a 700R4 (732 Pump #) behind a 396 with 4:88 gears. It was in a 69 camaro, I would drive it to the the track, run several times, and then drive it home.
Never had any problems.

 

You think the 2004r is better than the 700r4?

from all the research I did & people I talked to
I was convinced the 200 is better in every way
Doug

 

yep, go with 200r4 ,CKperformance seems to know transmissions...:anim_25:

 

Mikko, i realized your both participations were removed! is it because its not allowed to mention the URL?

i spoke to CKperformance the guy is called chriss and hopefully ill buy it :shakehands:

thanks for your answers gentlemen

 

rearend...your stock rear dont have a chance..I assume your new stroker would have near 500 ft/lbs torque ,well it means that if you choose 700r4 it has 3.06 first gear ratio and your stock rear end ratio is maybe 3.55:1 so the abuse for rear is 500 x 3.06 x 3.55 x 0.9 (driveline loss..)= 4888.35 ft/lbs to one axle !
In the real world you would loose traction very easy but still you would be twisting that axle all the time...even stock 28 splines 9 inch ford cant take that without differential lock. you know how it goes upgrade one thing...and then million things more.btw driveshaft is one item in the list too..1350 series yokes would be wise choise too.:anim_25:

 

Mikko, you are right, upgrading one thing, million things will be following that!

When I bought the 383 stroker 460 HP, they said its the most popular, i assumed its the most populat because it'll keep most of the original parts with no replacements required!

now if i must change the rear axle, im not sure how will this work, i already purchased the disk brake conversion for rear and i already have the tires and rims for the original. If lets say i purchased another axle, is it going to have the same length? Will it come complete with the studs of same fitment?

And where do you think the best place to get it from? Ckperformance as well?

Thanks

 

If you are not going to be highway driving at all then the TH350 or TH400 is a MUCH better choice. They are stronger and more reliable than the overdrive units and less costly.

What kind of tires are you planing on putting on the car? If they will be street radials, the stock rear should hold up if you dont totally abuse it. Like I said the main problem is you most likely dont have a limited slip differential for it so you will be spinning the right rear tire all over town. I had the original rear in my car for a long time until I power shifted it and broke the spider gears. Just like I said I abused it and it broke. If you shock it (transbrake/neutral drop/sidestep clutch/power shift), it will break at your power level. If you drive it hard and smoothly, and just mash the gas it should last. I am telling you this from my experience.

 

hi K , you will find many suplier for rearend that bolt on to your rear suspension and lenght is the same as your original...you may need different brackets to make your disc brakes work with new axle but that shouldnt be too hard...

You will get best overall gear ratios from either 200r4 or 700r4 transmissions...

th 350 first 2.52
second 1.52
third 1.00

th 400 first 2.48
second 1.48
third 1.00

th 200 first 2.78
second 1.57
third 1.00
fourth 0.67

th 700 first 3.06
second 1.63
third 1.00
fourth 0.75

Like you see there is differences...dont look much on paper but in reality
they are quite a lot...th200r4 has very nice ratios for small block stroker.
just my 2 cents. :anim_25:

 

I agree with Mikko, the 200r is hard to beat. Mine has held up very well with my big block. I run a 373 rear gear and it's perfect for whatever I choose, highway or drag strip. Mine has a decent shift kit and so far I'm very pleased. If you want to hear how it pulls find my old post "ride with Christine" and watch that. BTW that's in DRIVE without me shifting at all. I drove it there and home about a hundred miles each way. It shifts under full throttle at 5,200 so it doesn't hammer anything and is very easy on the driveline. The big block is in the 525/550 hp range. Roller cam, aluminum heads, forged pistons etc but not to wild because we do take trips in it also. :flag4::anim_25:Blake

 

hi Blake ,christine runs absolutely great...I just took a ride what rearend ?
12 bolt ? I just assume cause 3.73 is gm ratio...:wavey:

 

Let us know what you end up with cause I'm looking at a swap for my 55 Sedan. Best of luck, BDR...