[1320/150]

sounds like you've made up your mind!!

 

[hotwls13]

Yeah, I guess I'm like 95% leaning the 307. lol

Just trying to convince myself I'm doing the right thing. Plus, I really don't want to deal with taking it back etc. for $100.

 

[pistoncan]

Im usually odd man out on these things. I happen to like 265's and 283's so a 307 is just fine with me. Its nothing but a 283 with a 327 crank in it. Tried true and bulletproof.

I know that its an american instution that bigger is better, but I don;t agree. Why anyone needs 500 hp to go get a cup of coffee is beyond me. But I felt the say way about billet everything. 4 tires that hold air, Brakes that stop, and a smooth runnin small block chevy and Im cool.

 

[karaokekng]

I posted this on my regular project thread, but thought I might get faster responses here:

My friend Jim just called, turns out the engine we thought was a 350 is a 305. We didn't check the casting #'s on the outside, just ASSuMEd it was a 350. Once Jim started tearing into it, he realized it wasn't a 350. Tom (close friend of Jim's) the guy I bought it from also obviously thought it was a 305 (it was in his 55 when he drove it home, then instantly pulled the engine and put a nicer one in that he had waiting). Tom has already offered to give me my $$ back and even come pick it up.

Soooo, I'm at a fork in the road. Do I keep it and move forward and build a 305?? OR do I go through the hassle of getting my $ back ($200 for 305 eng/350 trans) then search for what is most likely gonna be a more expensive 350/350 setup?? Or do i give hime the engine back, and find a buildable 350 but keep the trans??

Honestly I don't know enough about engines to make an EDUCATED or EXPERIENCED decision on the matter.

My goal for the car is for it to be fine on the freeway at todays speeds and pass if needed (don't want to be out there wishing I had more when trying to pass).

What do you guys think?? How much will this hurt my performance?? How much more/less will it be to build?? Will this lower the value of the car significantly if I should decide to sell??

BTW this will be going in my 57 210 4-door

If it runs good and there are no smoking/oil issues, you can't beat the price. Drive it and build what you want; it was built for economy. I have the same situation...building a 327 while driving the 305.......good luck, Bill

 

[karaokekng]

Guess I should have read all the posts before I responded....lol
Bill

 

[USA1]

A 307 is a lot better moter than a 305. however I have seen a couple of 305s that made good power. When you already have a $&1# pile of 350 cores its easy to be partial to a 350.

 

[henrys57wagon]

There is no reason a 307 would not give you the driving fun you need. We flat towed our 67 Chevelle wagon drag car all over with our 72 Chevelle Nomad wagon with a 307 and it did just fine. Don't go big on the carb as these small engines don't like a lot of CFM's. Many 307's are drag raced with stock intakes and q'jets and will put you in the back seat. Keep it cheap and since they all look the same who is going to know, if that is important to you. I have a 283 with 305 heads(not in the wagon) that will turn the tires any day, good luck and enjoy what you can afford.

 

[hotwls13]

Thanks guys for all the input. I'm gonna stick with the 307. It's just the least expensive option for me and for the mild motor I'm wanting I think it will be fine. I had 350 on the brain when I started this project but I'm learning to roll with the punches.

 

[LarryH]

Since you already have the 307 and you can build it for a reasonable cost, i vote for doing the 307. They can be built into a fairly decent engine.

You can`t rebuild a motor for what you can buy a new gm crate motor. One of the best values is the 290 horse 350 crate motor.
Around $1900, new!
You asked for opinions so there`s mine.
:anim_25:

That's pretty much why i went with a GM crate engine in my T-Bucket instead of rebuilding the 327. The 260 hp 350 was $1,672 delivered to my garage.

 

[hotwls13]

Alright guys, after a couple days of thinking about it. I'm going to look for a running 350. Looks like I'm just gonna have to put too much $$ and parts into this 307. I found a running 1985 350/350 locally for $400 so you guys were right, they are out there. Haven't seen it or talked to the guy yet.

I am a LONG way out as far as engine goes anyway, so I will keep my eye out for something running.

Thanks for all the input. Guess it took a couple days and a bit more research to find that I was kinda chasing my tail with this 307.

 

[Mr. Sinister]

you can make power with a 305, there's a guy at the local dragstrip running well into the 10's in a 3rd gen firebird with a built 305 on the hit. BUT, you'll ALWAYS make more power with the same setup on a 350. more cubic inches = more power potential. like i said about the local guy's 305, there are always exceptions, so it's really up to you. if you're just looking for a cruiser, nothing wrong with the 305. if you like getting a little squirrelly, go with the 350.

i picked up a 10,000 mile 350 out of a late 90's/early 2000's gm pickup (vortec 350), intake to oil pan, for $150 because it had popped a freeze plug. this is a 4 bolt main block that comes from the factory with a decent crank and rods, which can hold a decent amount of power. it is a roller motor, which i personally prefer for a street engine. i swapped pistons for an 11:1 set, reused the entire bottom end, tossed in a grumpy comp cam and edelbrock performer rpm top end and have a nice little street sweeper. all the old school parts will bolt right to the block, but vortec heads require a special intake and valve covers, if you use them. the vortec heads do make decent power, so a lot of guys just run them. you do have to drill the block to run a mechanical fuel pump, or just do what i did and run an electric.

 

[hotwls13]

Alright guys, whatya think about this.

Found a COMPLETE 350 with a 700r4 about an hour away from here for $400.

Supposedly it was running and is ready to go in the guys el camino but he has lost interest and is selling the engine trans and el camino.

Any tips as to what to look out for?? If I go look at it, I will be taking my friend Jim who knows what to look for.

 

[Mr. Sinister]

sounds like a steal. if the motor runs, it can always be rebuilt, same with the trans.
****, if you don't want it, give me the guy's number.

 

[hotwls13]

I'll let you guys know what happens after Saturday.

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

Would be real nice if you could see/hear it run.

 

[hotwls13]

Would be real nice if you could see/hear it run.

Yeah, it's kinda scary buying used stuff like this from a 3rd party I don't know.

What are some things to look for with an engine/trans not installed in a vehicle??

 

[phatssbigboi]

I always look to see if I can hear the engine run or drive the car. I look at the oil and temp as well as pull the trans dip stick. See if it appears to be the orginal engine and look at the odometer. Look for leaks smoke.

Take a buddy with you and pull as much as you can from the doner car, belts, driveshaft whatever you can it will come in handy if not now at some point down the road.

Also keep the engine as intact as you can when I pulled the 305 I spoke of earlier

I pulled the complete engine and trans. I pressure washed and painted the engine, changed the oil in the engine, pulled the power steering pump and dropped engine and trans in.

I use the battery cables, carb, alternator, water pump, fan, HEI and trans lines from the doner and never took them off the engine.

Went to the drive shop and had the yolk changed and hit napa for a trans cooler. (I'm sure I forgot a few things)

 

[nitrouspro]

engine tester

The best way to check an engine that's out of the car, is with a leak down tester. With this device you can check the individual cylinders for bad rings and or valves that are not sealing. Not sure if you can rent one, or maybe borrow one, as they cost about 100. No disassemble is required.
If the rings in a cylinder are leaking, you will see it on the gauge, and hear it with the valve cover off. If a valve is leaking, again you will see it on the gauge and hear it leaking into the exhaust or intake port. Good luck/al

 

[hotwls13]

Not able to get up and look at the 350/700r4 for a few weeks (won't have a truck or lift).

I did find a 350 here in town I can get for $150. Has newly rebuilt heads, but needs work on the bottom end. We were planning to rebuild the bottom end on whatever engine we got anyway.

I feel better about this one cause I know the guy selling it, it is local and it's only $150.

I also talked to a local shop (Super Shops) they have rebuilt 700r4's with shift kit for $500 with 12month 12k warranty. I was planning to have my 350 trans gone through anyway and it was probably gonna be like $200. So, I like the idea of a warrantied 700r4. Pretty sure that's what I'm gonna do as far as trans.

 

[hotwls13]

The best way to check an engine that's out of the car, is with a leak down tester. With this device you can check the individual cylinders for bad rings and or valves that are not sealing. Not sure if you can rent one, or maybe borrow one, as they cost about 100.

Here is one for $32 after coupon:

HF Leak Tester

At what stage if the engine is somewhat disassembled do these testers stop functioning??