[Lerch55]

Looking for some help. Stock brake system on 55, single master cylinder and drum brakes. Bought new reproduction brake lines from Ecklers and new brass three way connectors from Danchuk. Connections at brass blocks are leaking even without brake pressure. Brass blocks are not bolted down to help in lining up the tubing flares in the blocks. Tightened tube nuts snug and saw fluid leaking during bleeding process. Tightened nuts more and still saw leakage. Backed nuts off and re-tightened several times and still leaking. Removed brake blocks and could see that flare from tube left a ridge inside the block but only on part of the seat. Re-installed and tightened more than snug making sure tube is straight inside the block and still leaking.

Anyone experience this problem? Do I need to buy new blocks and brake lines from a different supplier and start over? How tight do the nuts need to be?

Thanks, lerch55

 

[Rick_L]

Sometimes repeated tightening and loosening will get a crookedly made flare to seat, others not. You should tighten the tube nuts firmly with the correct size flare wrench. But don't go overboard, you'll just damage the nut or break it.

If you have a good flare tool you could try putting the line in the flare tool and touching up the flare. Again it might work and might not. Use some oil on the point of the flaring tool. Clean the flare with spray brake cleaner before you connect it again to get rid of the oil.

If neither of the above works you can cut the flare off and re-flare if there's enough line to work with. Otherwise it's a new line.

 

[Pops @ Tri-5.com]

I have heard that these copper flare gaskets work:https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152280

However, I am hesitant to recommend them, because I've never tried them.

 

[Powerglide]

I’ve used those copper washers with success when doing automotive a/c work and I’m just a shade tree mechanic. Don’t overtighten!

 

[Lerch55]

I have a lapping tool that I could use to smooth up the flares. I am wondering about the ridge I am seeing on the flare on the inside of the ports on the block. The flare on the end of the line seems to be causing it but I am not sure why. Has anyone ran into bad machined brass blocks that do not allow the flare on the end of the tube to seat properly?

 

[warpwr]

Sounds like just more Chinese reproduction crap.
What the hell, it's only your brakes, why should they care about you, your family or your prized possessions.

I would get the lines and fittings and bender and flare tools made in the USA and build your own. Maybe even save a few bucks.
Made in USA brake line coil kits
or something like what Jegs has.
And I am sure there are how-to's online.

 

[angs1957]

I have come across the flare ends not totally uniform that causes a leak.
Re tightening has also worked sometimes.

 

[Beachcomber]

Those were The Days

YES have had Brake lines that were not flared properly. some success trying to clean it up or the tighten-loosen-retighten method. Beyond that have to replace or re-flare which I'm no good at. so I go buy new ones again. I'm always sure to "inspect" it first and trial fit on some extra parts just to "SEE" if it looks OK . The days of buying something off the shelf, installing and driving away seem to be gone. Not much worse than a leaky brake line!! Feel your pain !
Frank
:gba:

 

[Dragsix]

try the soft copper seats first

 

[Custer55]

I would try the seats first also. I bought a tee fitting a couple of years back that turned out to be junk. I had the same problem as your having. it leaked all over without any real pressure on it at all. I bought a different fitting and it has been fine since. The seats in the leaky one looked like they were to small for the tubing to seal properly, so the copper seats might work.

 

[gmvette]

Try reflair the ends. Stainless steel lines are very finicky that the seats are perfect and does not respond well to used seats, Carbon steel line are more for giving sometime loosen wiggle and relighted is all it takes.

Carefully check both mating seats for any flaws prior to assembly. Reseating the flair in the flailing tool sometimes helps, use even pressure. Distortion causes leaks.

 

[Jalapeno]

Brass blocks are not bolted down to help in lining up the tubing flares in the blocks.

So are you just holding the block with your hand, or...? You need to have them secured to the frame so you can really tighten the lines.

The brass is way softer than even regular bundy tinned steel lines. An off-center witness mark on the brass cone area is not unusual. The tighten/loosen/tighten method almost always gets the line seated properly after a few reps.

 

[stickline]

Hi Lerch55,

This brings back some bad memories for me from about a year ago. I had the same problem on my 55. I thought it was the fittings, but after 3 sets, I figured that wasn't it. It seemed like I just couldn't get them tight enough even with a good set of wrenches.
All of my lines and brass blocks were from Shafers Classic Reproductions. I tried the copper washers, but when I connected the lines to the brass blocks, I thought they might move while tightening them down, and I might not get the proper flow of brake fluid throughout, so I didn't didn't go that route
What finally worked for me was a combination of three things. First, I lapped the ends of the brake line with a flare lapping tool from Koul Tools. https://koultools.com/product/flare-lapping-tool/. Then I put a little brake fluid on the ends of the line going into the brass junction blocks. Tighten the lines down, come back and hour later, loosen them up and tighten them down again. Come out the next day and check them all again and make sure they are tight. I've been driving the car now for about a year, and no leaks. Hope this helps.

 

[oldchey57]

Leaking

Sounds like just more Chinese reproduction crap.
What the hell, it's only your brakes, why should they care about you, your family or your prized possessions.

I would get the lines and fittings and bender and flare tools made in the USA and build your own. Maybe even save a few bucks.
Made in USA brake line coil kits
or something like what Jegs has.
And I am sure there are how-to's online.

A lot of stuff made in China is handwork. They don't invest in the machinery like the US to keep their costs down.

Dangerous Joe :viking:

 

[matt56]

Try spraying the area with brake cleaner. On more than one instance I’ve chased ‘leaks’ that was fluid from assembly (and left in the threads) working its way out.