I installed a front sway bar on my 57 Chevy and it rubs on the inside of my wheels when I turn sharply enough to back out of or drive into parking areas. The obvious solution is to not turn my wheel so sharp but that's impossible sometimes. I'm using 14X7" steel wheels because I wanted to retain my stock spinner hubcaps. The wheels were purchased to provide clearance for a front disc brake conversion. Has anyone else experienced this problem with 14" wheels? My optional choice was 15X7 wheels from Coker with BFG tires. I'm thinking the 15" wheels will provide the clearance necessary. Any ideas?
proeagles1
Unless the 15s have less back spacing they likely will rub. My buddies 55 with offset disc brakes 14" Cragars rub his sway bar.My 56 with near 0 offset C5 style CPP spindles & 17" wheels 4" BS 225 tires rub not that I feel the rub but the sway bar shows that it does.
My 55 with a CPP front sway bar does too with 15x7
215/70 rally wheel have not really fix the problem yet but I guess it’s the way the bar is made but it only turning left I think 🤔
215/70 rally wheel have not really fix the problem yet but I guess it’s the way the bar is made but it only turning left I think 🤔
Thanks for your reply so I'm guessing throwing bigger wheels at it is not going to solve the problem. Mine has done it mostly turning left, either forward or backward, but the wheel turned to the left. Bummer because the sway bar really transformed the way it drives. Guess I'll try wheel spacers but I don't think 5mm, roughly 1/4" will make that much difference.
Are they the Rally wheels? I was also concerned with the tires hitting the fenders with too much offset.
I got the one from ABS with a 10.5" rotor I believe. It allows the use of 14" wheels because I wanted to retain the look of my stock spinner hubcaps and whitewall tires.
I'm aware of that. That is not the problem. The inside of the wheel rubs against the sway bar link when I turn the wheel too sharply. The sway bar link can only be mounted in one place on the lower control arm.
True enough. I guess if a 1/4" spacer would work, than a 1/2" narrower wheel would provide more clearance. I hate to keep spending money throwing parts at it unless I'm reasonably positive that it will work. I'll research that and see.
Since the studs aren't long enough for a spacer, I'm going to try the narrower wheel since I can locate some to try out. I'll let you know if it works.
Possibly a different sway bar slightly different shape? if you found one might be as economical to swap as wheels & tires just a thought.Think you said it was CPP bar same as I have.
Doesn't matter what bar you have, the mounting point on the lower control arm is the same tab.
To be clear I don't have the disc brakes installed yet. The car is lowered with 1 1/2" springs only, 5 degree positive caster control arms. The sway bar is CCP 1" sway bar.
Then it's possible your disc brake kit might move the wheels out just enough for the wheel to clear the sway bar brackets depending on the kit you have. My car when first put together had that same bar tubular uppers & lowers 1.5" lowering springs with CPP near 0 offset brake kit 17x7" wheels that had 4" BS 225/45/17 tires touched at full turn Not the wheels.Good luck I'd check it with the brake kit on before changing anything else.
I suspect your 17" wheels is providing the clearance you need. In any event, I will mess with installing the kit in reverse if it will work as that will prevent the caliper from being a problem. As for now, it is the rim of the wheel that's the problem. I'll let everybody know when I get that far and reach a solution. Thanks for all the replies.
That's a really old thread. I was a little concerned about them but I'm going to give it a try as I really want to keep my steel wheel and hubcap look. Still don't have a definitive answer as to whether they can be mounted on the rear. Someone mentioned they could be reversed since they were designed to be mounted on the front of the rotor. Performance wise I don't think it really matters. This car will be a cruiser and not a performance driven vehicle.
I won't be installing that extravagant a setup so I'm hoping it will work reasonably well. I'm not doing power brakes either. My plan was a dual master cylinder for safety with disc brakes up front and drums in the rear. I've drive a couple of tri fives with power brakes and both were over boosted due to a number of factors I'm sure and both were kits off the shelf. I'm installing power steering out of necessity because frankly the car is just too hard to steer at low speeds for my wife (and me for that matter). I believe you mentioned they could be mounted front or rear of the rotor. Have you actually seen that done or know for sure it can be done?
I believe @BamaNomad (Gary) used one of the ABS kits: 10.5" disk brake kit (Kit #307) from Autocity...
I don't think front or rear matters as far as performance. We must be the only two people who bought this kit.
For handling it matters, since the calipers are heavy cast iron, you want to keep the weight towards the center of the car...
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