I installed the one from Eckler's, which has a U shaped bend in it so the differential won't hit it incase you bottom your car out. I would stay away from the straight ones you see on Ebay. Ted

 

We make a nice tubular one that has alot of clearance. Bolt in, Nice setup.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/CP90158instructions.pdf

 

You only need the curved one if you car is lowered..otherwise get a straight. i bought the Ecklers bolt in one and did it in my garage on jack-stands as I removed the rear tire to gain better access

 

I used the Williams Classic Chassis Works "wagon style" bar on my hardtop.

I like the way the shocks mount on that bar. It's the only one available with eye ring mounts.

 

I really like this set up, wish I'd of done this to mine. Ted

 

What is the advantage over having the stock set up. I am at the point that if I need to change my stock set set up I should do it soon. Almost done with my 57

 

The rear shocks bolted directly to the trunk floor. This shock relocation kit moves the upper rear shock mount location down to the frame where Chevrolet should have put them!

•Relocates Rear Shocks To Prevent Trunk Floor Damage
•Improves Ride Quality

 

Save the trunk floor!

As has been stated, a straight across style is fine with stock ride height. Typically about 2" of shock travel is lost, as the upper shock attachment point is lowered when using a bar. This is of no consequence as there is more than ample shock travel on a stock car.

When the car is lowered, then things rapidly get crowded. The center section of the rear axle can strike a straight shock bar, and room for exhaust pipes (especially fat ones) where they pass over the rear axle becomes a big issue.

The shock bars that curve well forward in the center allow more space on lowered cars.

We modified our homemade shock bar twice for differential clearance, and increased shock travel, as the car was lowered.

:anim_25:

 

Has anyone tried installing reinforcement plates or maybe fender washers to where the shock mounts to the body in the stock location to distribute the load so the sheet metal doesn't crack?

 

That's only part of the problem.
The body is the wrong place to mount a shock to.

 

I'd think you could fab a bar with top mounts up pretty close to original mounting points. Also think beefing up floor would be an easy thing to do and would be better than stock.

 

Rear shock bars are a very cheap and easy fix to a original design flaw. Why not, better mousetrap. :bowtier:

 

Classic Chevy also has a complete kit that I may install pending my finding another solution.

http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-r...y.com/chevy-rear-coil-over-shock-conversion-2-drop-2-piece-frame-1955-1957.html

 

New scenario, did not realize you were completely redoing the rear suspension. the shock bar in the kit looks very good. :anim_25: :bowtier:

 

I am also using Earle Williams Rear Shock Bar and am very pleased with it. Well made and way stronger than it needs to be.

 

The shock mounts on the body of my car are DEEE-STROYED. :hammer: :rolleye0009:

After breaking through they were reinforced by a previous owner with plate and two pieces of angle iron run from wheel well to wheel well on either side of the shock mount. When I got the car one side needed to be repaired so I fixed it again. It's a giant nasty mess.

I'd recommend the shock bar if you can do it.

 

Fitted the rear shock relocation kit to the back of our 56 Chevy, should of done it years ago, got to be one of the best modifications yet! Thanks to the others on here for advice, helped a lot.