Mounting the filter

It is a little tight for working space down by the fuel pump, but there was just enough room to get everything in there. I started out by first installing the 90 onto the pump, with a thorough wrapping of teflon pipe tape.

After the 90, I was able to take the inlet bulkhead off of the filter and use a long extension with a 1 1/4" socket to tighten the bulkhead fitting onto the elbow. The filter body has "O" rings on both ends, so the extruded center part of the filter can just thread on by hand.

After putting the inverted flare adapter into the outlet bulkhead, I used the same 1 1/4" socket to snug it up to the filter body. Not too tight, just enough that it wouldn't work loose.

 

Making and fitting a hard line

I used both a spool type bender and a "pliers" type bender to get the line formed to connect the outlet of the filter to the Holley. This was a pretty pokey process that took one solid hour, just for routing and bending.

Because none of the angles were normal, I just made up a stiff wire template to work out the shape of the line. This worked out best, as I was able to bend the line and have it work on the first try. I did have a spare piece of 3/8" steel line just in case, but I didn't need to use it.

Getting the inverted flare fitting tight down at the pump took a little bit of creativity. The proper tool for this job would be a 5/8" flare nut crows foot, but I didn't have one of those. Because I don't believe in butchering and rounding off flare nut fittings with standard open end wrenches, I slid a 12 point box end wrench down the line for the final tightening of the lower fitting. This trick only works if you have open access to the other end of the line, and a clear path to slide the box end wrench off the opposite end of the line once the flare fitting is tight. I had both, so this was not a problem.

 

The finished product

I bent up the line so that it would not be too close to anything that was going to heat it up, to avoid problems with vapor lock down the road. I have actually put 400 miles on the car since getting the new filter in place, so I know that I have not introduced any new problems by making this change.

I feel a lot better now about driving the car long distances, now that I have a proper filter. I also know that hard connections and hard line will never be a failure point which could cause a fuel leak (fire) in the future.

Even though this is a "polished" filter, it is buried way down by the fuel pump, so it does not add any "bling" to the engine compartment, in keeping with the simple character of the underhood environment on my wagon. I am really pleased with the end result, and it was worth the chasing to get the right fittings, and the 3 hours to get it all installed and fitted properly, including bending up a pretty difficult shaped line.

Driver.

 

Clean installation and good work,good going. kkkkkkkkk for posting. :shakehands: :tu :tu

 

Great job :tu

 

way to go you good idea and you sure got her done. :congrats:

 

nice set up. I wish I could bend lines as nice as that!

 

Thanks for the kudos

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I posted this because I was at another big car show this weekend and saw a surprising amount of cars with rubber line on the pressure side of the fuel system, and even a few with the glass "fire starter" filters plumbed in with rubber hose and spring clamps.

It kind of gives me the willys to see fuel system hazards, and it is also annoying that Holley does not have a fuel bowl for the 4150/60 carbs that points the fuel line out the front of the carb, with a provision for a simple sintered bronze filter. You know, something adequate for a driver, not a drag car.

This is the next best thing, having a hard plumbed filter, with a replaceable screen, tucked out of the way, so things don't look too haphazard in the engine compartment, and the chance of a leak is really zero. Thanks!


Driver.

 

I agree with Driver. Rubber hoses make big black spots along the sides of roads.

Nice job BTW.

 

How can you hard line all the way to the carb when the carb has the tube instead of the treaded port? Van :gba:

 

A new inlet fitting

How can you hard line all the way to the carb when the carb has the tube instead of the treaded port?

Most carbs have inverted flare inlet fittings available for them. I don't recall ever running across a carb that I could not find an inverted flare inlet for. What type of carb do you have? Is it, by any chance a Carter/Edelbrock carb with a hose barb coming out of the inlet? If so, you can just purchase one of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...RCOARIsADfss35tLoo4h1S6ALUvwNEg5xS6NxHa4Hhbg-zMiWv04C3BOrnw8DcQiaMaAkuqEALw_wcB

Driver.

 

Rubber Fuel Line! My 56 Almost Burned

The previous owner cut the original fuel line and put a metal filter in line with rubber connections on each end. His rubber was bigger than the original line. Had to tighten down on the claps to stop it from leaking. The top clamp cut into the rubber.I start my car and back it out of the garage, open the hood and see something splashing on the inside fender. Thinking it might be anti freeze I take a closer look and it's GAS. I had the new correct line but am waiting for the fuel bowl with filter. She's in the garage until I get all the parts.

 

I had a similar setup

The previous owner cut the original fuel line and put a metal filter in line with rubber connections on each end. His rubber was bigger than the original line. Had to tighten down on the claps to stop it from leaking. The top clamp cut into the rubber.I start my car and back it out of the garage, open the hood and see something splashing on the inside fender. Thinking it might be anti freeze I take a closer look and it's GAS. I had the new correct line but am waiting for the fuel bowl with filter. She's in the garage until I get all the parts.

My previous setup was a leftover from when I first put in the new motor. I had purchased a pre-flared line from NAPA, which leaked huge at the carb, where one of the NAPA flares was. I found it when it sprayed fuel all over when we first fired the motor. Did a quick repair by cutting in another piece of line to the carb, joined by rubber hose. I never liked that, and finally got around to fixing it properly. Here is a photo of what I had before.

Driver.

 

Driver...I hear 'ya on the fuel leaks....This a before and sfter on mine.

 

I found a company called Russel on the Edelbrock web sight that makes something very close

 

Which product did you see??



Do you mean one of these products?

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/fuel-management/fuel-filters.shtml

Which of these is low cost and NOT an AN (aircraft) fitting, or a hose barb fitting? Is there another Russell filter that I am missing here?

The whole point of this project was to find a compact, inexpensive filter (mine was $29) that worked with standard inverted flare fittings (NOT expensive AN fittings) that would plumb in readily to a stock type fuel system using no more than one transition fitting on each end of the filter. I also required that there be no clamped hose connectors to "splice" in a filter. I don't see that with any of the Russell products unless there are others not shown on their filters page.

Driver.

 

You done good driver :congrats: