If you have the valve cover off the left bank then turn the engine over clockwise till the #1 cylinder Intake valve first opens then closes watch the timing mark continue to turn the engine till the timing mark on the balancer is at 0 on the timing tab that is #1 firing

 

Why not use a piston stop John?

 

David
The valve and timing chain covers are on and sealed. Which piston stop are you referring to? They have several on Amazon.
John

 

Using a piston stop tool, will not pick between #1 & #6 TDC.
Using 56ls408s way will do it, and well although I use #6 rockers "rocking", I place a 6" ruler over the push rod part of both of the #6 rockers and while wrenching it around you can see the ruler moving. The equal movement of the inlet & exhaust rockers just opening should be TDC on #1. Also a good way to check timing chain stretch.

 

The piston stop isn’t going to tell you if your on #1 firing like said above you have to determine if it’s on #1 or #6 firing I wouldn’t worry too much get everything connected where you can crank the engine with the starter pull #1 plug use a starter button or have someone bump the engine over while you hold your finger over the plug hole till you have compression on#1 then turn it the rest of the way over by hand till the timing mark at 0 drop your distributor in Your ready to go

 

A piston stop along with a degree wheel is the only way to determine absolute top dead center with heads on if you aren’t sure that the balancer & timing cover are correct or a matched set But I’ve never found it necessary just to Set #1 firing to Drop the distributor in correctly. I have been tricked when someone put the wrong balancer on one designed for tdc to be at 12:00 instead 2:00 I’ve since learned to look at the orientation of the key way on the balancer to the timing mark won’t be tricked that way again

 

Best to leave the distributor out until the mill is installed.

 

A piston stop and degree wheel is the most accurate way.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...FgIEoUuurcMSHI-J9dfAw7PyXFa09TUMt_JflUNwHb-4D1mOFWyBQaApS-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

You are 100* correct that piston stop & degree wheel is the most & really only way to find absolute TDC When the heads are installed but I think we are confusing the OP he is only asking how to position the engine so he is on #1 firing & not 180* off. So as long as his balancer & timing tab are correct then he only needs to be concerned that he has the engine positioned on #1 firing

 

I use the finger in #1 plug hole method. It never lies.

And churchkey is right, put the distributor in after the motor is in the car. You'll be taking a chance of busting it up against the firewall if it's in the motor while stuffing the motor in. Bad for both the dist and the firewall.

 

The timing mark tells you where TDC is. A finger or a whistle alert tells you where #1 is. https://www.finditparts.com/product...RDkARIsAJcfmTGweEMUB-fP5rXF6_qxFBJsr-9xj8LcndSQKD2AsJ_9PN_pgS7bxggaAhCCEALw_wcB

 

Any piston (#1 in this case) is at TDC (top dead center) once in each
revolution, the exhaust stroke or compression stroke. You are trying to
establish TDC for the compression stroke.

As others have said, with the spark plug out, checking for air coming out
of the spark plug hole will verify that the cylinder is indeed on the way up
to TDC on the compression stroke, The air won't come out of spark plug
hole on the exhaust stroke since, if the cam is in time, the exhaust valve
will be open and no pressure will be generated to force air out of the spark
plug hole.

Now set the alignment of the damper mark with the indicator tap on the
front of the timing chain cover.

To make up for any play in the system the piston stop method is the
most accurate. Using the piston stop method you must be sure that the
piston is on the up stroke for compression and not the exhaust stroke so
checking first for air coming out of the spark plug hole will insure that the
piston is on the compression stroke and using the piston stop tool will
verify the piston is indeed at TDC for the compression stroke.

 

Good comments.
I think one of the main things I am trying to do is to install as much on the engine out of the car. Stabbing the distributor in after the engine is on a compression stoke for # 1 is no big deal but I also want to lay out the spark plug wires where they are very neat and exactly the right length.
I am trying to cure the mistakes I made in the original setup.
Nothing looks better to me than a detailed out engine compartment.

 

To run the wires: Put the distributor in the hole the rotor orientation is irrelevant @ this time. Install the cap, run the wires # 1 is normally @ the 5:00 position when viewed from the front of the engine. Use wire numbers or masking tape to label the wires. Mark the distributor housing where #1 wire sits in the cap. Pull the wires out of the cap & remove the distributor.

After installing the engine use the starter to determine the compression stroke for #1 cyl & zero the balancer timing mark, install the distributor lining up the rotor with the mark you made on the side of the distributor. Bump the engine over to mate the oil pump drive shaft & distributor shaft. Double check TDC & rotor orientation. Install the cap & plug the wires in.

Good luck.

 

If that’s your Main concern then go ahead & do it if you are running your wires like they were originally under the manifolds with the correct plug heat shields I would once you have everything laid out pull one bank plug wires off the cap Take the cap & rotor Back off the distributor so you don’t break them sitting the engine I know you said you have the covers back on but if you are doing this on a engine stand I still recommend my original post pull that left cover back off Crank the engine till #1 intake open then closes continue till you reach TDC on the balancer & timing cover Drop the distributor in & run your wires no need for anything else period!

 

I use a compression whistle which will "Whistle" when you start to come up on compression stroke for number one and then replace with a piston stop. Once piston contacts balancer, make a mark & then rotate counter clockwise until piston stops again. Make a mark again. In the middle of these two marks is "TDC" on your balancer.

 

There is a timing mark on the balancer. John does not need a piston stop. A finger or whistle is all that's needed to find the compression stroke. With the engine out of the car and all the plugs out, it wouldn't be difficult to hold your finger over #1 plug hole and turn the engine over.

 

Agree...Its even in the Shop Manual:

 

I wanted to be sure I was exactly on #1 TDC before install the new one.

This was the second sentence of the original post by Rustaddict in your linked thread.

To me, that meant he wanted to verify the timing mark. The whistle or finger on the spark plug hole is not exact - it only tells you whether you are on the compression stroke or not.

The timing marks tell you whether you're "exactly" on #1 TDC but not whether you're on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. The piston stop (or a dial indicator) is used to verify the timing marks, if needed.

So acardon nailed it with only a few words.

 

So acardon nailed it with only a few words.

Yes

 

I bought a whistle that installs in the # 1 spark plug . Turn the engine by hand until you hear the Whistle... line up the zero mark and your at TDC. Yes...it’s more accurate with a degree wheel but it works with the simple whistle! Have done many many engines that we have had to drop a distributor in for one reason or another and it fired up every time!!!
No need to make it Rocket Science..remember the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid!).

 

Got mine on ebay. Couldn't have been more than $5 or so. Really do work great. Especially when working alone.