I was thinking fuel line also. Probably 3/8'

 

I used a piece of steel fuel line. I forget what size but it was a perfect fit and I know it's not an off size or anything. Cut the flare off both ends, Bending was easy. Soldered in perfectly and does not leak.

 

I am getting a core from Mr. 265 (Thanks) and will see how it looks. If the bore looks good, I will rebuild it or send to East Coast.

 

Actually, I was guessing copper but probably was steel. As mentioned, once painted it will look okay. I can take it somewhere and get a bend put into it.

 

White post restorations does them and offers a lifetime warranty. As for the copper overflow tube, the version on my original 57 radiator was steel and was soldered into the neck. Were the 55-56 radiators different using a copper tube? By the way, soldering the new steel tube was easy. Acid flux for plumbing, small torch, not to hot, just enough to get the solder to flow, and you are done.

 

I just thought copper was easier to work with you could bend it with your hands ,I think mine is also steel on my original radiator ,once you paint the copper black nobody would know ,

 

Once you have located the correct core, I would HIGHLY recommend you have it sleeved in brass. I have seen too many cores rebuilt, only to fail, because of pitting and/or out of round chambers. There are many places that do it, and it is well worth it.

 

http://www.eastcoastchevy.com try these guys ,if you need a correct core I have one you can have just pay postage ,,wayne

 

those guys are probably the best place to send it to. That's the plan I have for mine. I have an original, but it's the late model one and I like the look of the 55-57 one with the nut thing at the end. So I got a core off ebay for around $45 bucks to send to East Coast. :anim_25:

 

Here are a couple of pictures of mine. Definitely not correct but sort of looks okay. Is there anyone out there that has rebuilt correct originals?

Easy enough fix except for all the up and down of the bleeding process.

 

Early to mid 57's have the same M/C as the 55-6. There was a phase in period where the earlier design was replaced, with the newer style, as stock was exhausted. It is a cheaper part to make with less chance of a leak at the front. Most all replacements still use this basic design

 

Found this info in a previous thread on the subject: http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99062

The OEM MC has a brass block in front with copper crush washers on each side (front and back) and is secured by a special shoulder bolt. The block can be turned 360 degrees before tightening the bolt but I think the line comes in at about 5 o'clock, as you're facing the MC. There should be Delco Moraine 1 " cast into the side, I think. Here's a link: http://www.trifive.com/garage/55 Chevy Assembly Manual/5-3.gif

The 57 MC is different, it's all one cast piece, no brass block, and the line comes in underneath the MC. Almost all aftermarket MCs are cast one piece, no block. Link to 57 MC: http://www.trifive.com/garage/57 Chevy Assembly Manual/5-1.gif

 

thanks heaps trying to put it all together is a lot harder than pulling it apart!!

 

VERY NICE! regardless

 

I read this post entirely . WOW. Mike

 

Wow. That is some pic. Even the spring loaded oil cap on the generator has been detailed. I think this is much nicer then factory. Thanks David, Carmine.

 

Two barrel, vacuum wiper, non-power brake version

 

Nice ,,,good job ,,:tu

 

 

The assembly manual is a good reference for things like that. From the tri-5 library: http://www.trifive.com/garage/55%20Chevy%20index.htm Here's the regulator :...http://www.trifive.com/garage/55%20Chevy%20Assembly%20Manual/12-16.gif