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While I was doing the engine mounts, I pulled the engine forward and got behind it to do some prep work.....Sanded it all down to the start of the tunnel.....Will remove the hood next to access more of the firewall and detail the hinges.

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Dave, this was a full rebuild right from the start was it not :sign0020::sign0020::anim_25: and keep us posted.
 
Pops I just read your latest updates and now realize why you were looking for rubber pads. I used the CCI mounts before I found Speedways,(unfortunately, price-wise) the difference between the two is that CCI uses the rubber, cups, and washers from the front mount. The cup flange fits into the hole of the side mount (Just like the front) and eliminates the engine from moving around. The puck you're using may let the engine move around on that pad. Try using that puck in the old cups to keep the engine in place. See mine below.
 

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Discussion starter · #65 ·
Pops I just read your latest updates and now realize why you were looking for rubber pads. I used the CCI mounts before I found Speedways,(unfortunately, price-wise) the difference between the two is that CCI uses the rubber, cups, and washers from the front mount. The cup flange fits into the hole of the side mount (Just like the front) and eliminates the engine from moving around. The puck you're using may let the engine move around on that pad. Try using that puck in the old cups to keep the engine in place. See mine below.
Will....Good pont on the flanged washers.....The Speedway Cushions (pucks) are too large to fit the origial trifive flanged washers though....They are 2 7/8" vs 2"....I'm looking at the ones on this page in the Mac's catalogue:http://macsautoparts.com/search.asp?sb=0&ls=y&camid=F30&year=0&make=&ss=motor+mount&x=19&y=10

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Discussion starter · #66 ·
Will.....CCI's pucks and flanged washers look larger than 2" to me as well.

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Discussion starter · #68 ·
Pops, I measured the original cup and CCI's cup, both measure the same. I'm (almost) sure they are using the same parts as front mounts.
Interesting Will.....I'll have to check out that possibility....I do like the extra meat though.

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Interesting Will.....I'll have to check out that possibility....I do like the extra meat though.

I agree, and looking at the rubber showing in my pic looks thin, but there's more rubber in the cup. I've read posts where people think these mounts raise the engine too much and have problems with tranny clearance. I have a 700R4 and have no clearance issues. If anything it raises the engine to where there are no problems with the steering linkage hitting the oil pan. :)
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
I've read posts where people think these mounts raise the engine too much and have problems with tranny clearance.
I must confess, I didn't do a before and after measurement on the engine angle....However, its up a little too high now and the angle is around 5+ degrees.....Not having any problem with the clearance between the transmission and tunnel though....Plan to put a couple shims under the tranny mount to get the angle at around 4*
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
Good progress so far David. Are the treadle vac and other original components all going back on?
The plan is to put the tredle vac back in place, minus the remnants of the clutch linkage that were there.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Is that trans getting an upgrade too then? I read the whole post but maybe I missed something.
Dale....The PO had a 200R installed and I'm very happy with it.
 
Pops you have the frame looking great and it has no rust pits on it as for as the engine mounts on the pass. side do you have room for the fuel pump it looks close to the mount, are you going to paint all under the hood compartment black the firewall, frame and a-arms and are you going to paint the engine like the factory color, you are doing A GREAT JOB WITH OUT PULLING THE ENGINE OUT, keep sending us updates and pictures, If I was closer to you I would be greatful to give you a hand with it because thats a lot of work to do by your self if you plan on taking it to the car show. :anim_25: Later Bill PS, sence you have the motor pull up front I would paint the firewall red before you set the engine back in place just a thought. Later Bill
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
David,I was confused by the clutch linkage removal comment since you already have the rare PB with manual.Tim Daleo
Dale....When I got the car, the 200R was already installed......Hovever, many parts from the original standard shift remained, including the pedal, bracketry and linkage.....Sorry for the confusion.

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Discussion starter · #80 ·
Pops you have the frame looking great and it has no rust pits on it as for as the engine mounts on the pass. side do you have room for the fuel pump it looks close to the mount, are you going to paint all under the hood compartment black the firewall, frame and a-arms and are you going to paint the engine like the factory color, you are doing A GREAT JOB WITH OUT PULLING THE ENGINE OUT, keep sending us updates and pictures, If I was closer to you I would be greatful to give you a hand with it because thats a lot of work to do by your self if you plan on taking it to the car show. :anim_25: Later Bill PS, sence you have the motor pull up front I would paint the firewall red before you set the engine back in place just a thought. Later Bill
Bill....Good point.....Looks close.....However, CCI's instructions say the fuel pump will clear....See photo #7 here:http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/18-02.pdf Will double check though.

Was going to paint the firewall black, because I will not be able to get to the outside edges without pulling off the dog house.....Will rethink about the red.....Maybe I can find a good dividing point......In any case, the dog house is not coming off this go-around.....Need to leave something to look forward to in my old age.....Job security; don't 'cha know :)
 
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